Dai pai dong is a type of traditional food stall in Hong Kong. The casual, open-air stalls peaked in popularity in Hong Kong during the 1960s and 1970s. [1] The literal meaning of dai pai dong in English is “big license stall”. Dai pai dong can be recognized by their green steel exteriors and serve affordable Cantonese specialties. [2] During their heyday, the stalls served a social hubs where working people would gather to eat and talk. [3] Starting in the 1980s, the government stopped issuing new licenses and began buying them back, citing hygiene concerns and noise and traffic complaints. As elderly dai pai dong owners sold their licenses back to the government or died without being able to transfer licenses to their descendants, most dai pai dong closed down and were replaced by different kinds of restaurants. Urban development has also had an impact on dai pai dong. There are only 25 dai pai dong left in Hong Kong according to the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department, which manages the licenses. Because of the desire to preserve the local food culture, it has been suggested that licenses should be issued again for new and existing dai pai dong owners.[4][5]
Background
editDai pai dong was popular among the working class due to its cheap price in the 1950s and it earned the nickname “poor people’s nightclub”.
The rise of hygiene and traffic congestion complaints forced the government to stop issuing dai pai dong in 1956. The licenses started to be sold on the black market, and the government had to institute limits on the ability to transfer them as well. The licensees could only transfer the licenses to their spouses upon their death. If the licensees did not have a spouse, the license would expire.[6]
In 1975, with the opening of the first cooked food center, a lot of dai pai dong moved into these centers and markets. In 1983, the government began to buy back licenses from the holders to improve public hygiene. Since the licenses could not be transferred, many aged license holders chose to sell their licenses to the government. The number of dai pai dong in Hong Kong dropped significantly. There were 68 dai pai dong in Kowloon City prior to its demolition. There are currently only 25 dai pai dong remaining in Hong Kong: 11 in Sham Shui Po, 10 in Central, 3 in Wan Chai, and one in Tai O. Only a few of them are still on the streets in the traditional style.
Nevertheless, while the traditional food stalls representing Hong Kong food culture closed down one by one because of urban development, there are those who suggest preserving dai pai dong.[7]
Controversy
editIn 2005, the closure of several local food stalls, such as Man Yuen Noodles, has brought some to call for the preservation of local food culture, including dai pai dong.
Support for dai pai dong
editThose in support to dai pai dong argue that preserving them will help promote tourism, protect local culture, and create job opportunities. Dai pai dong were enmeshed in the local community and relationships between owners and customers were close and friendly.[8] Among those in support of dai pai dong are the current owners and concerned citizens. The owners want for the government to set standards for them to improve, instead of being forced to close.[9]
Opposition
editThose opposed to the continued operation of dai pai dong include the District Council, some members of the Hong Kong Legislative Council, and the Tourism Board. The primary concerns are related to the hygiene and safety of the operations.[10] There are also concerns about dai pai dong blocking roads and leading to noise and safety problems for the nearby residents.[11] The Tourism Board is also concerned that the existence of dai pai dong may lead to an image of Hong Kong being unclean.[12]
Changes
editSince the late 2000s, changes have been made to dai pai dongs to allow them to operate in a different ways. These changes were aimed to help them to survive in Hong Kong.
Policies
editIn 2014, the Hong Kong government loosened control on licenses transfer. 9 dai pai dong licenses on the Hong Kong were transferred and the stalls are kept open.[13] To coordinate the improvement in quality of dai pai dong, in 2009, the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department provided funds to those in Central. The funds were to improve the sewage disposal and gas systems. There are also now regular sanitation events to maintain cleanliness.[14]
Operating indoor
editA traditional dai pai dong is a large iron box painted green with foldable tables and chairs on the roadside during opening hours and no air-conditioning. Because of management issues, some dai pai dong have moved to Municipal Services Buildings, such as those in Tai Kwok Tsui.[15]
References
edit- ^ 百家廊：別矣，香港街邊大排檔, 香港文匯報(2008年1月6日)
- ^ https://www.discoverhongkong.com/hk-eng/explore/dining/must-try-dai-pai-dongs-and-their-essential-dishes.html
- ^ http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-wine/article/1556158/dai-pai-dong-endangered-species-hong-kong Dai Pai Dong Endangered Species in Hong Kong, South China Morning Post, (21 July 2014)
- ^ (Chinese)https://hk.news.yahoo.com/小販再發牌須地區支持-221114515.html 小販再發牌須地區支持, 星島日報(2015年2月26日)
- ^ (Chinese)http://www.881903.com/Page/ZH-TW/newsdetail.aspx?ItemId=782608&csid=261_341 食衛局建議簽發新小販及大排檔牌照, 商業電台(2015年3月2日)
- ^ (Chinese)街邊有檔大牌檔 莊玉惜著 香港：三聯書店 (香港) 2011
- ^ (Chinese) http://paper.wenweipo.com/2005/07/31/HK0507310045.htm 民園麵家唏噓聲中結業, 文匯報(2005年7月31日)
- ^ (Chinese) http://www.inmediahk.net/node/1032080 七十年品質堅持不敵重建 魚蛋粉老店勢結業, 香港獨立媒體(2015年3月5日)
- ^ (Chinese) http://blogcity.me/BLOG/reply_blog_express.asp?f=GHRCY6O69F120827&id=221937 遊客紅星慕名光顧 街坊盼留集體回憶 深水埗大排檔, 頭條日報(2010年1月5日)
- ^ (Chinese) http://www.881903.com/Page/ZH-TW/newsdetail.aspx?ItemId=188543 深水埗區議會反對保留大排檔, 商業電台(2009年12月29日)
- ^ (Chinese) https://www.thestandnews.com/politics/鍾樹根-小販易請難送/ 小販易請難送, 立場新聞(2015年3月2日) archived link
- ^ http://www.scmp.com/article/506523/tourism-authorities-spurn-dai-pai-dong Tourism authorities spurn dai pai dong, South China Morning Post (30 June 2005)
- ^ (Chinese) http://www.hkcna.hk/content/2014/0618/271520.shtml 香港大排檔僅剩26家 政府修法搶救 ,香港新聞網(2014年6月18日)
- ^ (Chinese) http://news.singtao.ca/toronto/2009-12-29/hongkong1262075025d2231587.html 食署資助中環大排檔扮靚, 星島日報(2009年12月29日)
- ^ (Chinese) http://std.stheadline.com/yesterday/loc/0226ao11.html 街市擬改建離街熟食中心, 星島日報(2015年2月26日)
Further reading
edit- Lai, Lawrence Wai-chung (2003). Town Planning in Hong Kong: A Review of Planning Appeal Decisions, 1997–2001. Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press; London: Eurospan. ISBN 962-209-660-3.
External links
edit- (in Chinese) 香港獨立媒體(2015年3月1日), 【小販自強系列】陳朝鏗：誰說熟食小販不衛生？
- (in Chinese) 香港獨立媒體(2015年3月1日),【小販自強系列】小販成就社區復興運動
- (in Chinese) HKSAR Government,23-11-2005 立法會：「大牌檔文化承傳政策」動議辯論發言全文
- (in Chinese) 蘋果日報(2015年3月11日),【消費星期三】碩果僅存大排檔 屹立中環半世紀