Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b).[2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.[3]
 Hong in 2019 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 4 September 1991[1] Boulder, Colorado, United States |
| Education | University of Colorado Boulder |
| Occupation(s) | Rock climber, film director, photographer |
| Climbing career | |
| Highest grade | |
| Known for | Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route |
Early life and education
editHong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.[4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle.[5]
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder,[6] Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.[5]
Climbing career
editSport climbing
editIn 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle[7] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.[8]
In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade[2] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.[9]
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.[10][11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+).[12]
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in Ceuse.[13]
Competition climbing
editHong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category.[14] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.[15]
Notable ascents
editRedpoint
edit- 5.15b (9b)
- Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018
- 5.15a (9a+)
First ascent
edit- 5.14d (9a)
- Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011
- Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014
- Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
- 5.14c (8c+)
- La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015
- Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
- Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
Onsight
edit- 5.13a (7c+)
- Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
- 5.14b (8c)
- Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya
Bouldering
edit- V15 (8C)
- Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012
- Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020
Competition climbing
edit- Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO
Filmography
edit- Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12[17]
References
edit- ^ "Matty Hong". Scarpa. Retrieved October 14, 2021.
- ^ a b Anderson, Sam (October 13, 2021). "Matty Hong Claims First Repeat of 'Flex Luthor,' 5.15b, 18 Years After First Ascent". explorersweb.com. Retrieved October 14, 2021.
- ^ Davis, Shannon (November 20, 2017). "Behind the Lens of Reel Rock, Climbing's Best Film Tour". REI. Retrieved October 14, 2021.
- ^ "Strong Climber Matty Hong Grew Up in a Climbing Family". Gripped. April 29, 2018. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ a b Chrobak, Ura (April 28, 2018). "Generation 5.16: Matty Hong". Climbing. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ "Matty Hong". Black Diamond Equipment. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ Carpenter, Hayden (August 15, 2016). "Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the "Boys Club" of Bad Girls Club (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. Retrieved October 14, 2021.
- ^ Purtell, Joe (December 7, 2017). "Snapshot: Matty Hong – Raised on Rifle". Rock & Ice. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ "Matty Hong Becomes Fourth American to Climb 5.15b". Rock & Ice. May 3, 2018. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ Potter, Steven (October 18, 2021). "Matty Hong Sends Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luther—Upgrades to 5.15b". Climbing. Retrieved October 19, 2021.
- ^ "Breaking News: Matty Hong repeats Flex Luthor, proposes 5.15b". Gripped. October 13, 2021. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ a b Potter, Stephen (November 9, 2022). "Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade". Climbing. Retrieved November 21, 2022.
- ^ a b Miller, Delaney (May 30, 2023). "Hong Does 'Biographie,' Cobra Crack Sees a Repeat, and 70th Anniversary of Everest FA". Climbing. Retrieved July 20, 2023.
- ^ "Matty Hong — IFSC". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ Fox, Amanda (October 10, 2011). "Austrians Rule American Roost: Lead World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved October 15, 2021.
- ^ "Matty Hong". UKC. Retrieved October 19, 2021.
- ^ Salabert, Shawnte (March 12, 2020). "The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes". Outside Online. Retrieved October 19, 2021.