Talk:Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
Latest comment: 2 months ago by Aszx5000 in topic Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
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Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
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Moved from User talk:PrimefacRe technical information: It seems worthy of inclusion as it is of interest to readers who have a high interest in climbing (which is likely do be more than the population average of people reading this specific page). A simple mentioning of the climbing grade helps put the difficulty of the climb into context and is far from WP:TMI. Mn1548 (talk) 16:36, 18 August 2024 (UTC)
- I would be okay with a simple sentence or two stating that there is no official grading w.r.t. competition climbs but fall into general ranges, since as far as I've seen every route setter that gets asked the question either deflects or declines to give hard numbers. Whichever way we decide to go, the table was rather excessive. Primefac (talk) 15:32, 21 August 2024 (UTC)
- Fair enough, the table is alot of information. Being honest to don't know enough about how well understood other climbing grades are to properly decide which should / shouldn't be listed. I was brought up on UK tech and V grades, so for me taking the information from the source I found to give a sentence along the lines of "In Olympic Sports Climbing lead routes are generally between 8c and 9a" is fine for me, but could be completely alien to someone else. Boulder I wouldn't believe would be much of an issue as V grade, I think, are fairly common world wide. But understing of UK Tech lead grades isn't even fully understood within UK climbing as UK Trad is used solely by alot of climbers. Mn1548 (talk) 21:22, 21 August 2024 (UTC)
- I agree with Primefac, a sentence describing the general ranges that route setters target is useful - properly sourced - but these are only estimates and not exact.
- For lead climbing, the grades the sources use are French grades (not British grades), which is the most common with US grades and we have a template in Wikipedia to convert to them - E.g. when they say "8c to 9a" that is 8c (5.14b) to 9a (5.14d). French grade 9a (5.14d) has only ever been onsighted once in history, and competition lead climbing is onsighting, so 9a is naturally a ceiling.
- Similarly for bouldering, we have a template that gives the French font and American V-grade (the two dominant boulder grades) - E.g. when they say "V10 to V14" that is V10 (7C+) to V14 (8B+). Aszx5000 (talk) 00:28, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- So in general we would only use French and American grades for describing climbing routes then? In that case, a simple sentence using these templates should be sufficient. Mn1548 (talk) 13:34, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- Yes, and also realize that the sources are quoting French grades when discussing lead climbing, and not British grades, if that makes sense. I do think it is a very interesting fact about the competitions (one I have looked up myself) and definitely worth recording on the article. thanks again. Aszx5000 (talk) 15:45, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- Great, thanks, I shall add that to the article, probably as a subsection of competition format but can be moved accordingly if needed. TBH I should have probably realised they weren't British grades when attempting to convert them came up as errors, that an the shear level of difficulty that a 9a+ (British) would be. Mn1548 (talk) 16:25, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- I have made the same mistake myself :) thanks for your very helpful contributions Aszx5000 (talk) 16:29, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- Great, thanks, I shall add that to the article, probably as a subsection of competition format but can be moved accordingly if needed. TBH I should have probably realised they weren't British grades when attempting to convert them came up as errors, that an the shear level of difficulty that a 9a+ (British) would be. Mn1548 (talk) 16:25, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- Yes, and also realize that the sources are quoting French grades when discussing lead climbing, and not British grades, if that makes sense. I do think it is a very interesting fact about the competitions (one I have looked up myself) and definitely worth recording on the article. thanks again. Aszx5000 (talk) 15:45, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- So in general we would only use French and American grades for describing climbing routes then? In that case, a simple sentence using these templates should be sufficient. Mn1548 (talk) 13:34, 26 August 2024 (UTC)
- Fair enough, the table is alot of information. Being honest to don't know enough about how well understood other climbing grades are to properly decide which should / shouldn't be listed. I was brought up on UK tech and V grades, so for me taking the information from the source I found to give a sentence along the lines of "In Olympic Sports Climbing lead routes are generally between 8c and 9a" is fine for me, but could be completely alien to someone else. Boulder I wouldn't believe would be much of an issue as V grade, I think, are fairly common world wide. But understing of UK Tech lead grades isn't even fully understood within UK climbing as UK Trad is used solely by alot of climbers. Mn1548 (talk) 21:22, 21 August 2024 (UTC)