Sorato Anraku (安楽 宙斗, Anraku Sorato, born November 14, 2006)[1] is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. In 2023, Anraku became the first climber to win both the Lead Overall World Cup and Boulder Overall World Cup in his debut senior season.[2] He also won the gold medal in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2022 Asian Games, held in October 2023.[3] He won the silver medal in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[4]
.jpg) Anraku at the 2024 Summer Olympics | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | November 14, 2006 Yachiyo, Chiba, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Yachiyo High School | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 168 cm (5 ft 6 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | First male to win both the overall bouldering and lead IFSC World Cup titles in their debut season | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Climbing career
editBefore 2023, Anraku competed in youth international competition climbing.
In 2023, Anraku made his senior international competition climbing debut, opening the year with a fifth-place finish in bouldering at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Hachioji. He went on to win his first World Cup medal by placing second in the bouldering discipline at the Salt Lake City World Cup in May.[5] This was followed by his first World Cup gold medal at the Innsbruck World Cup in June, where he was also given the overall title for the 2023 Bouldering World Cup season.[6][7]
He went on to claim his first World Cup medal in lead climbing with a bronze in Chamonix in July, followed by his first gold medal in lead at the Briançon World Cup later in July. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern in August, he won a silver medal in lead behind Jakob Schubert.[8][9][10] He followed this up with two more first-place finishes at the Koper and Wujiang World Cups, both in September, following which he was also given the overall title for the 2023 Lead World Cup season.[11] In October, shortly after his performance in Wujiang, he also won gold in the men's combined sport climbing event at the 2022 Asian Games in Hangzhou, in his Asian Games debut.[12] He participated in the 2023 Asian Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier, held in Jakarta in November, where he placed first in the men's boulder and lead competition.[13] This qualified him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, where he won silver behind Toby Roberts.[4]
Rankings
editIFSC Climbing World Cup
edit| Discipline | 2023 | 2024 |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 3 |
| Bouldering | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering & Lead | 1 |
IFSC Climbing World Championships
editYouth
| Discipline | 2021 Youth B |
2022 Youth A |
|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 2 | 3 |
| Lead | 1 | 1 |
Senior
| Discipline | Bern 2023 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 2 |
| Bouldering | 4 |
| Bouldering & Lead | 4 |
Number of medals at the IFSC Climbing World Cup
editBouldering
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| Total | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
Lead
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| Total | 4 | 1 | 2 | 7 |
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "ANRAKU Sorato". Olympics. Retrieved 28 August 2024.
- ^ "Sorato Anraku and Ai Mori win as Japan dominates lead World Cup meet". The Japan Times. 2023-09-26. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ Mikkelsen, Sebastian (October 6, 2023). "Asian Games 2023: Japan's 16-year-old Anraku Sorato strikes gold in men's boulder & lead competition". Olympics. Retrieved October 11, 2023.
- ^ a b "Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking". Paris Olympics 2024. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
- ^ McCarvel, Nick (22 May 2023). "Sport climbing: Narasaki Tomoa soars to boulder title at Salt Lake World Cup, Veddriq Leonardo wins in speed". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (2023-06-17). "Japan Continues to Dominate Men's Boulder World Cup - Sorato Anraku Wins 2023 Season". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "INNSBRUCK CROWNS ANRAKU SORATO AS NEW BOULDER KING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2023-11-28. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "ANRAKU MAKES HISTORY AS PILZ COMPLETES GOAL OF LEAD SERIES WIN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ de Villiers, Ockert (10 September 2023). "IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Koper 2023: Janja Garnbret and Anraku Sorato wins lead titles". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ "Ai Mori captures Japan's first lead world championship". The Japan Times. 2023-08-07. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ Mikkelsen, Sebastian (24 September 2023). "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles". Olympics. Retrieved 12 October 2023.
- ^ "Japan teen Anraku wins Asiad Men's Combined Sport Climbing_The 19th Asian Games Hangzhou". www.hangzhou2022.cn. Retrieved 2023-10-12.
- ^ "IFSC Asian Qualifier: Anraku Sorato and Zhang Yuetong win boulder and lead titles in Jakarta - Results". olympics.com. 2023-11-11. Retrieved 2023-11-11.
External links
edit- JMSCA profile (in Japanese)