Martine Rose (born 24 November 1980) is a British-Jamaican menswear designer and founder of the Martine Rose label. Her designs draw inspiration from her experiences and interest in rave, hip-hop and punk subcultures.
Martine Rose | |
|---|---|
| Born | 24 November 1980 |
| Education | Middlesex University |
| Label | Martine Rose |
| Website | www.martine-rose.com |
Early life and education
editRose was born in Croydon, South London in 1980; her family is British and Jamaican.[1] Rose's mother was a nurse and her father was an accountant so she spent much of her time in Tooting with her grandmother and her cousins.[2] After a year at Camberwell College of Arts she enrolled at Middlesex University and graduated in 2002 with a degree in fashion design.[3]
Career
editRose first started a label LMNOP with now-stylist Tamara Rothstein, a friend and frequent collaborator.[4] The line folded in 2005. In 2007 she established her eponymous label focused on menswear.[5]
Since its inception, Rose has been known for showing her collections in non-traditional spaces, including a street market, a community climbing gym, and a cul-de-sac in Camden, London .[6] She has been known to disregard fashion's seasonal calendar and expectations, sometimes because of financial constraints.[7] Some of her collections have been released via short films,[8] digital lookbooks, and Craigslist.
In 2011 she was supported by new talent showcase Fashion East during London Fashion Week. She also collaborated with workwear boots manufacturer CAT on a limited line of boots.[9]
In 2015, when fashion designer Demna Gvesalia joined Balenciaga as creative director, he hired Rose as a consultant, elevating her profile in the fashion industry.[10]
In 2018 Rose released a collaboration with Nike. The release included Rose's take on the tracksuit and Nike's Monarch model. She was inspired by English and American sports culture.[11] The collection was released on Craigslist in London and later sold at retailers.[12]
Her AW20 show took place at Torriano Primary School, her daughter's primary school in Kentish Town.[13]
Design
editAs a designer, Rose counts her upbringing around her older British-Jamaican cousins who were into raves, reggae, Lovers rock, punk, and dance music as formative.[14] Rose has been influenced by her own experiences at 90s London raves and her awareness of different subcultures in the city coming together around music.[15] Overall, she considers her Jamaican upbringing as a major influence in her attitude towards fashion design and style.[16]
Rose's label developed a cult following, with her designs featuring exaggerated proportions quickly becoming characteristic of her collections earlier on in her career. While considered a menswear designer, Rose designs her pieces with a broad spectrum of people in mind.[17] Her interest in nightlife and music scenes has led her to use fabrics in menswear that are typically more common in womenswear, like fur, satin and lurex.[18]
Awards
edit2023: British Menswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards.[19][20]
References
edit- ^ SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
- ^ "Meet Martine Rose: the designer standing out from the fashion crowd". Evening Standard. 2019-09-11. Retrieved 2020-11-12.
- ^ Fisher, Alice (2017-10-22). "Menswear designer Martine Rose: 'Fashion used to be for outsiders'". The Observer. ISSN 0029-7712. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "The Gentlewoman – Martine Rose". thegentlewoman.co.uk. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "Martine ROSE — About". Martine Rose. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ Dazed (2016-01-10). "Martine Rose returns with Sharna Osborne-directed film". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ Dazed (2011-07-12). "Martine Rose x CAT Boots". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "The slow-burning rise of Martine Rose". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
- ^ "Martine Rose Explains Her Unorthodox Nike Collaboration". Highsnobiety. 2018-12-11. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ "The Martine Rose x Nike Collaboration Has a Release Date". Highsnobiety. 2019-01-06. Retrieved 2020-11-18.
- ^ Petty, Felix. "Martine Rose goes back to school for AW20". i-D. Retrieved 19 April 2021.
- ^ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
- ^ SSENSE (2017-05-03). "Out of Obscurity". ssense. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
- ^ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-12-09.
- ^ "Martine Rose is designing for the 'dodgy' man of her dreams, one piece at a time". Document Journal. 2018-06-11. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
- ^ Dazed (2014-01-07). "EXCLUSIVE: Martine Rose AW14 collection". Dazed. Retrieved 2020-11-30.
- ^ "Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose and Sarah Burton among winners at the star-studded Fashion Awards". Vogue. Retrieved 26 March 2024.
- ^ "Fashion Awards 2023 : qui sont les grands noms de la mode du palmarès à connaître ?". Madmoizelle. Retrieved 26 March 2024.