Wikipedia

List of hanfu headwear

Chinese headwear has a long history. According to some scholars, China used to be called "the Kingdom of Headwear" by people due to its variety of colourful and artistic style of hair ornament.[1] There were various categories for headwear including guan (Chinese: 冠; pinyin: guān; lit. 'crown/hat/cap'), mao (Chinese: 帽; lit. 'hat/cap'), jin (Chinese: 巾; lit. 'kerchief'), ze (Chinese: 帻; lit. 'turban'), and mian (Chinese: 冕; lit. 'crown').[2][3]: 6  Chinese people also wore Chinese hairpins. Chinese women, in particular, like to use flowers (either natural or artificial) as hair decorations for centuries; they also wore shubi in their hair and sometimes wore the honggaitou on their weddings.

Types of headwear for males

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Headwear of Men
Name Definition Suitable age Match Period Images
Mian Guan (冕冠) Shier liu mian (十二旒冕) Twelve-tasselled Crown.

Initially all Mian Guan were worn by emperors, later emperors only wore this type.[4]

Adult Zhou – Ming      
Jiuliu mian (九旒冕) Nine-tasselled Crown.

Worn by dukes and crown prince's servants.[5][6]

Adult Zhou – Han    
Others Baliu mian (八旒冕): Eight-tasselled Crown. Worn by princes and dukes.[7] Qiliu mian (七旒冕): Seven-tasselled Crown. Worn by ministers.[8]

Wuliu mian (五旒冕): Five-tasselled Crown. Worn by viscounts and barons.

Pibian (皮弁) Leather Crown. Embedded with jades. Worn by all nobles.[9] Adult Zhou – Ming      
Liang Guan (梁冠) Tongtian Guan (通天冠)/

Gaoshan Guan (高山冠)

Sky-reaching Crown/High Mountain Crown. Worn by emperors in special occasions.[10][11][12] Adult tongtianguanfu (通天冠服) Qin – Ming

 

     
Yuanyou Guan (远游冠) Travel Crown. Worn by emperors and princes. Similar to Tongtian Guan.[13] Also worn by dukes in Han dynasty.[12] Adult Qin – Ming        
Diaochan Guan (貂蟬冠) Mink's Tail and Cicada's Wing Crown. Worn by emperor's servants and government officials.[14][15]

See also: Long Guan, Wu Guan.

Adult Tang – Ming        
Jinxian Guan (進賢冠) Recommending Crown. Worn by Confucian scholars and civil government officials.[16][12] After the Xin dynasty, it was worn with the jieze (介帻) with the crown folded on top, later becoming one headwear. Number of beams across the crown determines rank[17] Adult Zhou – Ming        
Zhongjing Guan (忠靖冠) Loyal and stable crown. Worn by retired officials.[18][19] Adult Ming      
Wu guan (武冠)/Wu bian (武弁)/Wubian daguan (武弁大冠) Military Crown. Wuguan was derived from the Zhaohuiwenguan (趙惠文冠), designed by King Wuling of Zhao, which was ornamented with a dang (璫; a gold ornament in the form of animals, such as dragons, cicada, and people) on the front and with sable's tail.[20] By the Han dynasty, military caps called wubian were commonly worn by soldiery, with formal guan variants worn by high-ranking military officials and imperial bodyguards, which were decorated with long-tailed pheasant's tail feathers as a symbol of martial prowess.[21][22][23]　 Adult Zhou-Jin        
Shufa Guan (束发冠) Hair-gathering Crown. A small cap to gather hair inside, fixed with long hairpin. Daily wear of all male. Mini size, sometimes in shapes of Liangguan.[24] Adult Five Dynasties - Ming        
Chang Guan (长冠) Long Crown, also known as "Liu family crown" (刘氏冠) or "Magpie tail crown" (鹊尾冠). Designed and first worn by Emperor Gaozu of Han based on Chu headwear. Later worn by Han dynasty's emperors and high officials during ceremonies.[25] Adult Han  
Long Guan (籠冠) "Basket hat". Developed from the Wubian("武弁")-hat, alternatively also known as Wuguan "武冠", worn by military officials.[26][27] Helmets or tall peaked caps; it extends down over the ears and neck.[23] It is semi-transparent.[27] Jin - Ming        
Lianhua Guan (莲花冠) Lotus Crown. First worn by highest rank Taoist Master, later also worn by the nobility. Currently used by Taoist priests. Adult Tang - Modern times        
Futou (襆頭) Chuijiao Putou (垂腳襆頭) Head cover/Head wrap. An early form of informal headwear dates back as early as Jin dynasty that later developed into several variations for wear in different occasions. Adult Tang – Ming        
Zhanjiao Putou (展角幞頭) "Spread-horn head cover". Designed by Emperor Taizu. Elongated horns on both sides can keep the distance between officials so they couldn't whisper to each other during court assemblies. Adult Changfu (Tang), Gongfu (Song-Ming) Tang – Ming      
Zhanchi Putou (展翅幞頭) "Spread-wing head cover". Commonly as "wushamao" (乌纱帽), or "black-muslin hat". Standard headwear of officials during the Ming dynasty. The term wushamao is still frequently used as Chinese slang referring to government positions. Adult Ming      
Yishan Guan (翼善冠) Philanthropy Crown, with wings folded upwards. Worn by emperors and princes of the Ming dynasty, as well as kings of many China's tributaries. Sometimes decorated with jewels and dragons. Adult Ming      
Tang jin (唐巾) Based on the futou, worn by commoners, particularly scholars. Adult Song - Ming      
Gaowu mao (高屋帽) Baisha mao (白紗帽) Also known as white gauze hat. It was worn by the sovereigns of Liu-Song and Southern Qi, it was later inherited by the Sui dynasty.[28] Adult White gauze hat. Northern and Southern dynasties – Sui    
Wusha Gaowu mao (烏紗高屋帽) High reach black gauze hat. See also, Long Guan Adult Northern and Southern dynasties – Song  
Zhulu mao (逐鹿帽) Adult Northern and Southern dynasties
Damao (大帽) Round hat with wide brim. Worn by people of lower-ranking occupations, such as government clerks and family servants. Adult Yuan-Ming        
Chanzongmao (缠棕帽) A damao made of rattan, sometimes decorated with feathers attached on top of the hat. Military attire. [29] Adult Yuan-Ming  
Liuheyitong mao (六合一統帽) / Xiao mao (小帽)/ Guapi mao (瓜皮帽) 'Six-part' United hat. Name originate from Ming dynasty's founder Hongwu Emperor uniting China. The hat would later develop into the "Guapi mao"(瓜皮帽) skullcap in the Qing dynasty. Worn by commoners.[30] Adult Ming - Qing        
Zhanli (毡笠) Wide brimmed hat. Adult Song
Jin (巾)/ Tou jin (头巾)/ Zhajin (扎巾) Headscarf worn by commoners, tied around the head or sometimes the topknot to protect the hair. In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.[31] Zhou - Ming      

 

Jinze (巾帻) /Jieze (介帻) / Pingshanze (平上幘) A cylindrical cap; it has a higher back and lower front. Originally it was a soldiers' headscarf that later developed into a head covering cap in the Han Dynasty and adopted into widespread use.[32] A red jinze called chize (赤帻) was used by military personnel, while another variant called jieze(介帻) is used by civil officials and servants.[33][23] Later developed into the pingshangze, which had a flatter top decorated with a bamboo slip, worn by military officials. Han - Tang dynasty

 

     
Cheng zi guan (程子冠) / Fangshan jin (方山巾) Worn by Cheng Yi and Cheng Hao. Developed from Dongpo jin.[34] Formal wear, popular with Neo-Confucian scholars. Adult Song – Ming        
Chunyang jin (純陽巾) / Letian jin (樂天巾) Named after Lü Chunyang and Bai Letian. [35] Popularly worn by scholar-gentry and Taoists. Adult Ming - Modern times      
Dongpo jin (東坡巾) Named after and supposedly worn by Su Dongpo, but originated from Five Dynasties period.[36] Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms - Ming        
Fu jin (幅巾) Popularly worn by scholar-gentry. Adult Han – Ming        
Hunyuan jin (混元巾) Worn by Quanzhen School Taoists, popularised during the Qing dynasty. Adult Ming - Modern times      
Jie jin (結巾) / Jiang jin (將巾) Also known as "general's headscarf". Worn by tying the two ends of the kerchief on top of the head. Commonly worn by military personnel.[37] Adult Song - Ming        
Guan jin (綸巾)/Zhuge jin (諸葛巾) Originally a style of fujin, later resembling a liangguan. Named after Zhuge Liang, who wore a guanjin. [38] Adult Han – Ming        
Huayang jin (華陽巾) Worn by Taoists. Adult Five dynasties – Qing  
Lei jin (雷巾) Adult Ming – Qing  
Piaopiao jin (飘飘巾) / Piao jin (飘巾) Popular among scholar-gentry. Named after the flowing ribbons behind it. Later inspired opera costume such as qiaoliangjin (桥梁巾) for its refined and cultured appearance.[39] Adult Ming      
Li jin (吏巾) Worn by minor government officials, it resembles a wushamao but made with softer material and square top.[40] Adult Ming    
Ru jin (儒巾) Ruist scarf. Popularly worn by scholars, especially those who have yet to earn the title of Juren at the imperial examination. Believed to be based on a headwear called zhangfu (章甫). [41] Adult Song – Ming        
Sifang pingding jin (四方平定巾) / Fang jin (方巾) / Sifang jin (四方巾) First worn and named by Yang Weizhen. Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang was pleased by its appearance and name, and ordered it to be used by scholars and minor government clerks. [42] Adult Ming      

 

Wangjin (網巾) Worn under headwear to secure and protect the hair. Adult Ming    
Xiaoyao jin (逍遥巾) Also known as "Heye jin" (荷叶巾), "Huadingtou jin" (花顶头巾). Worn by commoners, later adopted by Taoists. Originally worn by scholars to differentiate from peasants. [43] Adult Song - Ming
Yun jin (雲巾) Modeled after the Zhongjin guan, but worn by the scholar-gentry. Named after the "cloud" shapes formed on the sides. Adult Ming  
Zaoli jin (皁隸巾) Named after and worn by yamen runners. Due to the low status and the headwear not able to cover the forehead, it is also nicknamed "faceless guan"(無顏之冠)[44] Adult Ming    
Zhouzi jin (周子巾) Worn by commoners. Adult Song – Ming    
Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾) Also called "Dao jin" (道巾). Named after Zhuangzi. Worn by common scholars and Taoists, later exclusively by Taoist priests. Adult Song – Modern times        
Beiye jin (貝葉巾) Resembling palm tree leaves. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  
Chanfu jin (蟬腹巾) Resembling cicada's thorax. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming    
Kui jin (葵巾) Resembling flower petals. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  
Qinwei jin (琴尾巾) Resembling a part of qin. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  
Ruyi jin (如意巾) Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  

 

Sandaopenglai jin (三島蓬萊巾) Representing the three islands of Mount Penglai. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  
Xiantao jin (仙桃巾) Resembling Peaches of Immortality. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry. Adult Ming  
Hutou mao (虎头帽) Tiger head hat. Children Song - Modern times      
Zhuangyuan mao (状元帽) Champion hat. Children Song - Modern times
Chixiao mao (鴟鴞帽) Owl hat. Children Song - Modern times  
Xianggong mao (相公帽) Husband hat. Children Song - Modern times

Types of headwear for females

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See also: Chinese hairpin and Shubi (comb)
Headwear of Female
Name Definition Description Suitable age Match Period Images
Ji (笄) Hairpins. Single-pronged hairpin.[45] They were often inscribed with auspicious patterns.[46] Adult Neolithic – Qin      
Zan (簪) Ornamental hairpins.[47] Long, single-pronged hairpin after Qin dynasty. Small ornaments (e.g. flowers) could also be affixed on it[45][23] Adult Han – Qing      
Chai (钗) U-shaped or V-shaped hairpin.[23] Two-pronged hairpin.[45][23] Adult Han – Qing      
Three-legged hairpin.[23] Typically made of bronze.[23] Jin
Yanbin (掩鬓) The hairpin covering sideburns. Adult Ming – Qing    
Buyao (步摇); "step-sway" or "dangling hairpin" or literally "dangling with one's walking steps".[3]: 30 [48][45][49] Buyao Zan (步摇簪) Buyao hairpin. Single-pronged hairpin with dangling decorations. Adult Han – Qing
Buyao Shu

(步摇树)

Buyao Tree. Tree-shaped dangling decoration centered at front of hair. Adult Han – Ming    
Buyao Guan

(步摇冠)

Buyao Crown. Crown consisted of dangling decorations. Adult Han – Ming  
Zan hua (簪花) Flower hairpin. Could be fresh flower, silk flower, and flowers made with other materials. Man could also wear. Adult Tang - Qing      
Huasheng (華勝) Round flower hairpin centered front of hair. Adult Han – Song    
Di Guan (翟冠) Adult Song - Ming      
Hua Guan (花冠) Flower Crown.[3]: 645–648  Adult Han – Song  
Tang gongzhu touguan

(唐公主头冠)

Tang Princess's Crown Adult Tang
Feng Guan (鳳冠) Huashu Guan

(花树冠)

Flower Tree Crown. Adult Tang
Feicui Fengguan (翡翠凤冠) Jade Phoenix Crown. Adult Tang  
Long Feng Huacha Guan (龙凤花钗冠) Dragon Phoenix Hairpin Crown. Adult Song-Ming      
Yanju Guan

(燕居冠)

Adult Ming      
Mo E (抹额) Piece of garment covering forehead. Adult Tang-Qing  
Lianhua mao (莲花帽) Lotus hat. Children Song - Modern time
Shubi (梳篦)[50] or zhi Shu (梳) Comb.[51] Ancient - Modern      
Bi (篦) Fine-toothed comb.[51] Spring and Autumn period - Modern  
Mili (羃䍦) A hat with a long veil which covered the face and body Tang dynasty - Tang dynasty  
Weimao (帷帽) A hat with a hanging veil which covers the face.[52] Tang dynasty  
Mianyi (面衣) or gaitou (蓋頭) Veils or "facial clothes". A purple gauze which hangs on a hat from the front to the back with 4 ribbons of different colours hanging down from on the shoulders. Originated from the Tang dynasty's weimao (帷帽).[52] Adult Song dynasty - Unknown    
Humao (胡帽) "Barbarian hat". A hat without the veil. Tang dynasty
Liangmao (涼帽) "Cool hat". A hat worn by the Hakka women, a Han ethnic subgroup when working in the fields. It is made of a flat disc of woven bamboo with a hole in the centre and has a black (or blue) cotton fringe.[53][54] Unknown - Present  

See also

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References

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  1. ^ Han, Myung-Sook; Im, Sung-Kyung (2005-10-01). "A Study on the Artificial Flowers as a Hair Ornament in China". Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference (복식문화학회:학술대회논문집). The Costume Culture Association: 67–69. Archived from the original on 2022-01-18.
  2. ^ Mai, Huijuan; Yang, Yimin; Jiang, Hongen; Wang, Bo; Wang, Changsui (2017-10-01). "Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China". Journal of Cultural Heritage. 27: 116–124. doi:10.1016/j.culher.2017.02.018. ISSN 1296-2074.
  3. ^ a b c Zhu, Ruixi; 朱瑞熙 (2016). A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties. Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. ISBN 978-1-107-16786-5. OCLC 953576345.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  4. ^ "32". Rites of Zhou Annotation. 云"缫不言皆，有不皆"者，谓王之五冕，缫则有十二，有九，有七，有五，有三，其玉旒皆十二，故缫不言皆。有不皆者，则九旒已下是也。玉言皆，则五冕旒皆十二玉也。
  5. ^ "32". Rites of Zhou. 诸侯之缫斿九就...每缫九成，则九旒也。
  6. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 皇太子...其侍祀则平冕九旒
  7. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 王公八旒。
  8. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 卿七旒。
  9. ^ "4". Rites of Zhou. 王之皮弁，会五采玉綦，象邸玉笄...诸侯及孤卿大夫之冕、韦弁、皮弁、弁绖...
  10. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 天子郊祀天地明堂宗庙，元会临轩，黑介帻，通天冠，平冕...通天冠，本秦制。
  11. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 高山冠，一曰侧注。制如通天，顶不邪却，直竖，无山述展筒，中外官、谒者、仆射所服。太傅胡广说曰："高山冠，盖齐王冠也。秦灭齐，以其君冠赐近臣谒者服之。"
  12. ^ a b c Feng, Ge; Du, Zhengming (2015). Traditional Chinese rites and rituals. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. ISBN 9781443887830. Retrieved 4 February 2021.
  13. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 远游冠，傅玄云秦冠也。似通天而前无山述，有展筒横于冠前。皇太子及王者后、帝之兄弟、帝之子封郡王者服之。诸王加官者自服其官之冠服，惟太子及王者后常冠焉。太子则以翠羽为緌，缀以白珠，其馀但青丝而已。
  14. ^ "48". Yiwen Leiju. 秦始皇复古冠貂蝉，汉因而不改。此内官侍帷幄，受顾问，拾遗于左右，出则负玺以从，秩二千石。
  15. ^ "36". Book of Han. 今王氏一姓乘朱轮华毂者二十三人，青紫貂蝉充盈幄内，鱼鳞左右。
  16. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 进贤冠，古缁布冠也，文儒者之服也。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸。公侯三梁，中二千石以下至博士两梁，自博士以下至小史私学弟子，皆一梁。宗室刘氏亦两梁冠，示加服也。
  17. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 王莽頂禿，又加其屋也。《漢注》曰，冠進賢者宜長耳，今介幘也。冠惠文者宜短耳，今平上幘也。始時各隨所宜，遂因冠為別。介幘服文吏，平上幘服武官也。
    “进贤冠，古缁布遗象也，斯盖文儒者之服。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸，有五梁、三梁、二梁、一梁。人主元服，始加缁布，则冠五梁进贤。三公及封郡公、县公、郡侯、县侯、乡亭侯，则冠三梁。卿、大夫、八座，尚书，关中内侯、二千石及千石以上，则冠两梁。中书郎、秘书丞郎、著作郎、尚书丞郎、太子洗马舍人、六百石以下至于令史、门郎、小史、并冠一梁。汉建初中，太官令冠两梁，亲省御膳为重也。博士两梁，崇儒也。宗室刘氏亦得两梁冠，示加服也。”
  18. ^ "明忠靖冠".
  19. ^ "67". History of Ming. 帝因复制《忠静冠服图》颁礼部，敕谕之曰："祖宗稽古定制，品官朝祭之服，各有等差。第常人之情，多谨于明显，怠于幽独。古圣王慎之，制玄端以为燕居之服。比来衣服诡异，上下无辨，民志何由定。朕因酌古玄端之制，更名'忠静'，庶几乎进思尽忠，退思补过焉。朕已著为图说，如式制造。在京许七品以上官及八品以上翰林院、国子监、行人司，在外许方面官及各府堂官、州县正堂、儒学教官服之。武官止都督以上。其馀不许滥服。"礼部以图说颁布天下，如敕奉行。按忠静冠仿古玄冠，冠匡如制，以乌纱冒之，两山俱列于后。冠顶仍方中微起，三梁各压以金线，边以金缘之。四品以下，去金，缘以浅色丝线。
  20. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. "武冠，一曰武弁大冠，諸武官冠之。侍中、中常侍加黃金璫，附蟬為文，貂尾為飾，謂之'趙惠文冠'。胡廣說曰：「趙武靈王效胡服，以金璫飾首，前插貂尾，為貴職。秦滅趙，以其君冠賜近臣。」建武時，匈奴內屬，世祖賜南單于衣服，以中常侍惠文冠，中黃門童子佩刀云。 王先謙 集解：" 趙惠文王 ， 武靈王 子也。其初制必甚麤簡，金玉之飾，當即 惠文 後來所增，故冠因之而名。"
  21. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. "武冠，俗謂之大冠，環纓無蕤，以青系為緄，加雙鶡尾，豎左右，為鶡冠云。五官、左右虎賁、羽林、五中郎將、羽林左右監皆冠鶡冠，紗縠單衣。虎賁將虎文絝，白虎文劍佩刀。虎賁武騎皆鶡冠，虎文單衣。襄邑歲獻織成虎文云。鶡者，勇雉也，其鬥對一死乃止，故趙武靈王以表武士，秦施之焉。"
  22. ^ 禽经. "鹖，毅鸟也，毅不知死。状类鸡，首有冠，性敢于斗，死犹不置，是不知死也。《左传》：鹖冠，武土戴之，象其勇也。 "
  23. ^ a b c d e f g h Laursen, Sarah (2019). "10 Dressing the Dead in Jin China". The art and archaeology of bodily adornment : studies from Central and East Asian mortuary contexts. Sheri Lullo, Leslie V. Wallace. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. pp. 176–195. ISBN 978-1-351-26832-5. OCLC 1090702934.
  24. ^ Nanjing Museum General Office. "Info of 'Amber Shufa Guan'". 束发冠是古代男子用来约发的小冠，属闲居之服。出现在五代，宋代以后使用者渐多，至明代尤为盛行。束发冠通常以玉石、木材或金属丝制成，此外也有牛角、龟壳、椰壳等质地的。外形变化较多，常见者作梁冠状，有的还缀有各种珠宝，使用时扣覆在发髻之上，以簪子固定。
  25. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 长冠，一曰斋冠，高七寸，广三寸，促漆纚为之，制如板，以竹为里。初，高祖微时，以竹皮为之，谓之刘氏冠，楚冠制也。民谓之鹊尾冠，非也。祀宗庙诸祀则冠之。皆服袀玄，绛缘领袖为中衣，绛裤袜，示其赤心奉神也。五郊，衣帻裤袜各如其色。此冠高祖所造，故以为祭服，尊敬之至也。
  26. ^ "11". Book of Sui. 武冠，一名武弁，一名大冠，一名繁冠，一名建冠，今人名曰籠冠，即古惠文冠也。天子元服，亦先加大冠。今左右侍臣及諸將軍武官通服之。侍中常侍，則加金璫附蟬焉，插以貂尾，黃金為飾云。
  27. ^ a b Dien, Albert E. (2007). Six dynasties civilization. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. p. 313. ISBN 978-0-300-07404-8. OCLC 72868060.
  28. ^ Cunrui, Victor Xiong (2006). Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty : His Life, Times, and Legacy. State University of New York Press. pp. 132–134. ISBN 978-0-7914-8268-1. OCLC 1042816832.
  29. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 缠棕帽，以藤织成，如胄，亦武士服也。
  30. ^ 崔, 荣荣; 牛, 犁 (2017). "从瓜皮帽的流行演变看社会变迁". 江西社会科学 (8): 133–137.
  31. ^ 贾玺增 (2011). "巾环、玉屏花、玉逍遥与玉结子——宋元明时期巾帽类首服的固定和装饰用具". 紫禁城 (1): 86.
  32. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 古者有冠無幘，其戴也，加首有頍，所以安物。故詩曰「有頍者弁」，此之謂也。三代之世，法制滋彰，下至戰國，文武並用。秦雄諸侯，乃加其武將首飾為絳袙，以表貴賤，其後稍稍作顏題。漢興，續其顏，卻摞之，施巾連題，卻覆之，今喪幘是其制也。名之曰幘。幘者，賾也，頭首嚴賾也。至孝文乃高顏題，續之為耳，崇其巾為屋，合後施收，上下群臣貴賤皆服之。文者長耳，武者短耳，稱其冠也。尚書幘收，方三寸，名曰納言，示以忠正，顯近職也。迎氣五郊，各如其色，從章服也。皁衣群吏春服青幘，立夏乃止，助微順氣，尊其方也。武吏常赤幘，成其威也。未冠童子幘無屋者，示未成人也。入學小童幘也句卷屋者，示尚幼少，未遠冒也。喪幘卻摞，反本禮也。升數如冠，與冠偕也。期喪起耳有收，素幘亦如之，禮輕重有制，變除從漸，文也。
  33. ^ "26". 晋书. "《汉注》曰，冠进贤者宜长耳，今介帻也。冠惠文者宜短耳，今平上帻也。始时各随所宜，遂因冠为别。介帻服文吏，平上帻服武官也"
  34. ^ "19". 酌中志. 長者巾，製如東坡巾，而後垂兩方葉，如程子巾式。
  35. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 純陽巾，一名樂天巾，頗類漢、唐二巾。頂有寸帛，襞積 如竹簡，垂之於後。曰「純陽」者以仙名，而「樂天」則以人 名也。
  36. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 東坡巾有四牆，牆外有重牆，比內牆少殺，前後左右各以角相向，著之則有角介在兩眉間，以 老坡 所服，故名。
  37. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 將巾以尺帛裹頭，又綴片帛于後，其末下垂。俗又謂 之「紫巾結巾」，制頗相類。
  38. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 诸葛巾，此名纶巾，诸葛武侯尝服纶巾，执羽扇，指挥军事，正此巾也。因其人而名之。
  39. ^ "第二部·演习部·脱套第五". 閒情偶寄. 方巾與有帶飄巾，同為儒者之服。飄巾儒雅風流，方巾老成持重，以之分別老少，可稱得宜。
  40. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 吏巾，制類老人巾，惟多兩翼，六功曹所服也。故名吏巾。
  41. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 儒巾，古者士衣逢掖之衣，冠章甫之冠，此今之士冠也，凡举人未第者皆服之。
  42. ^ "28". 日知錄. 《豫章漫钞》曰：「今人所戴小帽以六瓣合缝，下缀以檐如詹。阎宪副闳谓予言，亦太祖所制，若曰'六合一统'云尔。杨维桢廉夫以方中见太祖，问其制，对曰：'四方平定中。'上喜，令士人皆得戴之。
  43. ^ "唐画〈五代、国朝附〉". 畫史. 其後方有絲絹作掠子掠起髮頂帽，出入不敢使尊者見，既歸於門背取下掠子篦約髮訖乃敢入，恐尊者令免帽見之為大不謹也。 又其後方見用紫羅為無頂頭巾，謂之額子，猶不敢習庶人頭巾。 其後舉人始以紫紗羅為長頂頭巾垂至背，以別庶人黔首。 今則士人皆戴庶人花頂頭巾，稍作幅巾逍遙巾額子則為不敬。
  44. ^ "衣服". 三才圖會. 皁隸巾，巾不覆額，所謂「無顏之冠」是也。其頂前後頗 有軒輊，左右以皁線結為流蘇，或插鳥羽為飾。此賤 役者之服也。
  45. ^ a b c d Yuan, Xiaowei (2017). "Traditional Chinese Jewelry Art: Loss, Rediscovery and Reconstruction Take Headwear as an Example". Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Humanities (ICCESSH 2017). Paris, France: Atlantis Press. doi:10.2991/iccessh-17.2017.135. ISBN 978-94-6252-351-7.
  46. ^ Zang, Yingchun; 臧迎春. (2003). Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi. 李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. ISBN 7-5085-0279-5. OCLC 55895164.
  47. ^ Jin, Cao (2018). Southwest China in a Regional and Global Perspective (c.1600-1911) Metals, Transport, Trade and Society. Brill. p. 141. ISBN 9789004353718.
  48. ^ Müller, Shing (2019). The Cambridge history of China. Vol. 2. Denis Crispin Twitchett, John King Fairbank. Cambridge [England]: Cambridge University Press. pp. 384–417. ISBN 978-0-521-24327-8. OCLC 2424772.
  49. ^ Sarah, Laursen (2011-01-01). Leaves that sway: Gold Xianbei cap ornaments from northeast China. ScholarlyCommons. OCLC 857244457.
  50. ^ Stent, George Carter (1871). A Chinese and English vocabulary in the Pekinese dialect by George Carter Stent. Customs Press. p. 423.
  51. ^ a b "Chinese Shubi". en.chinaculture.org. Retrieved 2021-03-19.
  52. ^ a b Xu, Man (2016). Crossing the Gate: Everyday Lives of Women in Song Fujian (960–1279). SUNY Press. pp. 70–72. ISBN 978-1438463223.
  53. ^ "Hong Kong Museum of History". www.lcsd.gov.hk. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  54. ^ Garrett, Valery (2012). Chinese Dress : From the Qing Dynasty to the Present. New York: Tuttle Pub. p. 327. ISBN 978-1-4629-0694-9. OCLC 794664023.
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