Jean Troillet (born 10 March 1948) is a professional mountain climber.
Jean Troillet | |
|---|---|
 Jean Troillet | |
| Born | 10 March 1948 |
| Known for | Fastest speed ascent of Mount Everest |
| Spouse | Mireille Troillet |
| Children | 1, Gustine |
| Website | http://www.troillet.ch/ |
Of Swiss and Canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. That year, at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the Matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes.[1] He has climbed 10 peaks of more than 8000 meters, all in alpine style and without oxygen.
Together with Erhard Loretan, Troillet climbed Everest in 1986. The pair holds the speed record for the ascent of Everest by the North Face, 43 hours to the summit and back.[2][3]
In 1997, he returned to Everest to make the first snowboard descent from the world's tallest mountain. After summitting without supplementary oxygen, he began his descent at 28,500 feet.[4] The ride set an unprecedented altitude record at the time, although was a bit more than 500 feet below the actual summit.[5]
In the 1990s, he began sailing.[5]
In 2001, Troillet, Mike Horn and Erhard Loretan attempted to cross Greenland on skis pulled by kites for a world record attempt. Poor winds prevented their attempt.[6]
In 2009, he completed a new route on the north face of the Matterhorn.[7] He climbed the route in memory of his friend Sébastien Gay, who died the year before in a skiing accident.[8] Troillet placed his friend's ashes at the summit.[9]
The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet
edit- K2, 8611 m
- Dhaulagiri, 8167 m
- Everest, 8848 m
- Cho Oyu, 8201 m
- Shisha Pangma, 8013 m
- Makalu, 8463 m
- Lhotse, 8516 m
- Kangchenjunga, 8586 m
- Gasherbrum I, 8068 m
- Gasherbrum II, 8035 m
Filmography
edit- 30 Years between 20 Meters of Rope, 2004[10]
- Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route, 2005[11]
- South Face Annapurna: Living is Victory, 2008[12]
- La Voie Sébastien Gay, 2009[13]
- Un Violon au Shishapangma, 2010[14]
- Vertiges à l'Annapurna, 2012[15]
- Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis, 2013[16]
- Bylot Island, 2013[17]
- Groenland pourquoi pas?, 2016[18]
- Jean Troillet, Toujours Aventurier - 2016[19]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ Sampiero, Josh. "Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record". redbull.com. Retrieved 24 November 2015.
- ^ "The record-breaker of Himalaya – Lukarn". Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, China, Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya 8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première) [1] Archived 1 May 2011 at Wikiwix
- ^ a b ncs-import. "Swiss-Canadian not interested in matching record, has moved onto other things". www.recordcourier.com. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ swissinfo.ch, S. W. I. (18 May 2001). "Swiss adventurers abandon Greenland record attempt". SWI swissinfo.ch. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ "New Route on Matterhorn North Face". Climbing. 28 July 2009. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ "Mort du guide valaisan Sébastien Gay". rts.ch (in French). 10 March 2008. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ "Matterhorn North Face - new route or not?". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2004), 30 Years Between 20 Meters of Rope (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Gay, Jean Troillet, Rolex, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2005), Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route (Documentary), Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2008), South Face Annapurna: Living Is Victory (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Devrient, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Rolex, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 August 2009), La Voie Sébastien Gay (Documentary, Short), Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Sébastien Gay, Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2010), Un Violon au Shishapangma (Documentary, Short), Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2012), Vertiges à l'Annapurna (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2013), Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis (Documentary), Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2013), Bylot Island (Documentary), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2016), Groenland pourquoi pas? (Documentary), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
- ^ "Jean Troillet, toujours aventurier". swissfilms. Retrieved 10 July 2024.