Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
.jpg) Hojer in 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | German | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | February 9, 1992 Cologne, Germany | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 188 cm (6 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 77 kg (170 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Winning one World Cup and two European Championships | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 21 September 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career
editCompetition climbing
editHojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.[1]
In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.
Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.
In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse.[2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.
Rock climbing
editHe also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).
Results
editClimbing World Cup
edit| Discipline[3] | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 22 | 22 | 43 | - | - | - | - | 33 | - | 17 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | 33 | 20 | 8 | 1 | 2 | 9 | 7 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 29 |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 5 | - | 7 |
Climbing World Championships
edit| Discipline[1] | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 30 | - | - | 30 | - | 29 |
| Bouldering | 39 | 46 | 5 | 3 | 27 | 9 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 30 | - | 33 |
| Combined | - | - | - | 2 | - | 3 |
Climbing European Championships
edit| Discipline[1] | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 41 | - | - | 21 |
| Bouldering | - | 20 | 1 | 1 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 23 |
| Combined | - | - | - | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
editBouldering
edit| Season[1] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2014 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2018 | 0 | |||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 6 | 4 | 2 | 12 |
Rock climbing
editRedpointed routes
edit9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
- Action Directe - Frankenjura (DEU)- May 22, 2010
8c+ (5.14c):
8C (V15):
- Quoi de Neuf - Fontainebleau (FRA) - November 21, 2017[4]
- From Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - March 8, 2015
- The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (CHE) - April 11, 2014[5]
- Le Marathon de Boissy - Fontainebleau (FRA) - March 2014 - First ascent.[6]
- Trip Hop - Fontainebleau (FRA) - October 2013
- The Big Island - Fontainebleau (FRA) - January 2013.[7]
8B+ (V14):
- Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
- Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]
References
edit- ^ a b c d e IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
- ^ Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
- ^ Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
- ^ Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
- ^ Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
- ^ Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
External links
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