Hofbrau is an American cafeteria-style restaurant concept, similar to a carvery. The name is derived from the German term Hofbräu, which originally referred to a brewery with historical ties to a royal court. Hofbraus emerged in San Francisco just after World War II, and spread through Northern California and elsewhere. The concept is in decline in the 21st century, though it still exists.

Food

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The choice of meats offered at most hofbraus includes some form of roast beef such as prime rib, tri-tip, or brisket; some form of salt-cured meat such as corned beef, pastrami, or ham; a whole roasted bird such as turkey or chicken;[1] and sometimes buffalo.[2]

Meals are typically served as sandwiches or as plated dinners, per the customer's preference. Sandwiches are often served au jus on sourdough rolls in French dip style, or open with beef jus or gravy ladled over the sandwich at the carvery station. Dinners often come with a side of mashed potatoes and gravy, with gravy ladled over both the potatoes and the meat. In addition, a dinner roll with butter plus a choice of hot and cold side dishes is included. Hot sides often include corn, macaroni and cheese, rice, and green beans.[3] Cold sides often include macaroni or pasta salad, potato salad, or regular iceberg lettuce salad.

Beer on tap is commonly available at most hofbraus. Liquor is sometimes available, and most alcoholic drinks are generally inexpensive.[1]

History

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Al Pollack's Tommy's Joynt in 2012
 
Al Pollack's Lefty O'Doul's in 1959

This restaurant concept was developed in San Francisco following World War II, and spread throughout Northern California.

In 1947, Albert Pollack[4] opened the Almond Blossom Restaurant on Van Ness Avenue at Geary in San Francisco. KFRC vocalist[5][6] Tommy Harris,[7][8][9][10] his cousin, became his partner in the restaurant.[4] It was renamed Tommy's Joynt in 1951.[4][11][12][2] In 1957, Pollack sold his share to his cousin, Billy Veprin.[4][13] In 1958, the 34-room boarding house above Tommy's Joynt was demolished.[14] In the 1960s and 1970s, Pollack owned Slattery's, the Main Stem, Hink's, the Red Chimney and the Leopard Cafe.[4] In 1979, Pollack bought back Billy Veprin's share of Tommy's Joynt, when Tommy Harris retired.[4] As of 2023, Tommy's Joynt is still in operation.[15][16] Robert E. Mason, a chef who became a partner, added buffalo stew to the menu, after a chance conversation with a diner visiting from a Wyoming buffalo ranch.[17] In 1986, Tommy's Joynt is where Metallica invited bassist Jason Newsted to join the group after the death of Cliff Burton.[18] In 2015, restaurateur Chris Henry purchased Tommy's Joynt.[13]

In the 1950s, successful chains like Harry’s Hof Brau, Sam's Hofbrau and Chick-n-Coop were established in Northern California.[1]

In 1958, Albert Pollack and partner Lefty O'Doul opened Lefty O'Doul's at Union Square on Geary Street.[4] Lefty O'Douls, a beloved hofbrau on Union Square in San Francisco since 1958, closed in 2017 after a bitter dispute with their landlord. [19]

Hofbraus have declined in business success and popularity in the 21st century.

In 2018, Brennan’s, a popular hofbrau in Berkeley, closed after 60 years in business.[20]

In 2019, Harry's Hofbrau, once a larger chain, lost the lease on its San Jose restaurant. That restaurant then closed, after 42 years in business. As of 2023, Harry's Hofbrau has two locations, in San Leandro and Redwood City.[21]

In 2023, Sam's Hof Brau, in business in Sacramento for 64 years, was severely damaged by a fire.[22] In January, 2024, the owners announced that Sam's Hof Brau would not reopen.[23]

Operations

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Restaurants are laid out cafeteria-style: Customers take a tray and utensils at the beginning of a long steam table, place meat orders at the carvery station, add side dishes as they move down the line, pay the cashier at the end of the line, and then seat themselves.

Expansive dining areas are generally available at larger hofbraus, and are typically used as meeting places for large groups of people who gather to eat, drink, watch sports on television, and have parties.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c Barmann, Jay C. (September 11, 2018). "Long Live the California Hofbrau, an Endangered Species of Boozy Cafeteria: As Brennan's in Berkeley closes, the future of the dining tradition looks dim". Eater. San Francisco. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  2. ^ a b Roth, Rob (November 5, 2020). "San Francisco's Tommy's Joynt reopens after eight month closure". KTVU. Oakland. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  3. ^ Wolfe, J.D. (October 14, 2009). "Restaurant Review: Harry's Hofbrau". Tri-City Voice. Fremont, California. Archived from the original on November 20, 2016.
  4. ^ a b c d e f g Hatfield, Larry D. (March 10, 1999). "Albert Pollack". sfgate.com. Retrieved 15 October 2024. Albert Pollack, the gregarious restaurateur who co-owned when Tommy Harris retired and over the years almost a dozen other well-known San Francisco restaurants, is dead at 82.
  5. ^ "Tommy Harris - KFRC Vocalist - Tommy's Joynt - 1930s". sfmuseum.org Museum of the City of San Francisco. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  6. ^ "Tommy Harris". theradiohistorian.org San Francisco Radio.
  7. ^ Warren Commission, Volume XXII: CE 1323 - History Matters
  8. ^ "Plan Fashion Show At Donor Lunch". Jewish Community Bulletin (J. The Jewish News of Northern California ). cdnc.ucr.edu California Digital Newspaper Collection. 17 May 1946. Retrieved 15 October 2024. Joaquin Garay, Tommy Harris and Andrini Beo will entertain the guests.
  9. ^ "TOMMY HARRIS". Orlando Sentinel. 20 July 1990. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  10. ^ "Tommy Harris". Bay Area Radio Museum. 13 August 2014. Retrieved 15 October 2024. KFRC & Tommy's Joynt
  11. ^ "Iconic-San-Francisco-restaurants-announces". sfgate.com. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  12. ^ "About Us". Tommy's Joynt Restaurant. Retrieved 15 October 2024. full bar, home style cooking, thanksgiving dinner
  13. ^ a b "Tommy's Joynt buyer has no appetite for change". sfgate.com. Archived from the original on June 10, 2015. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  14. ^ "Mayor Sets Crackdown". The San Francisco Examiner. 1 January 1958. p. 11. Retrieved 15 October 2024 – via newspapers.com. Doctor Ellis Sox, San Francisco Director of Public Health, City Health Director
  15. ^ Zimmerman, Steven (30 June 2015). "Susie Katzman and Chris Henry - Tommy's Joynt". Restaurant Realty Company. Retrieved 15 October 2024. FIBBA, CBI, M&AMI, CBB
  16. ^ Pine, Dan (November 12, 2004). "NOSH & FOOD:Bratwurst, brew and buffalo stew". jweekly.com. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  17. ^ "Robert E. Mason". sfchronicle.com. Oct 18, 2000. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  18. ^ "Management Says Iconic San Francisco Hofbrau Tommy's Joynt 'Not Permanently Closed'". cbsnews.com CBS San Francisco. 2 September 2020. Retrieved 15 October 2024.
  19. ^ Ravani, Sarah (February 1, 2017). "Lefty O'Doul's closes its doors on Geary Street in SF". SFGate. San Francisco. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  20. ^ Bitker, Janelle (August 24, 2018). "Why 60-Year-Old Brennan's Restaurant Is Closing Its Doors in Berkeley: Rising rent, climate change, and declining cocaine use are all part of the closure, says owner". Eater. San Francisco. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  21. ^ "Harry's Hofbrau Restaurant Loses Lease, Closes After 42 Years". NBC Bay Area. San Jose, California. January 8, 2019. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  22. ^ "Long-time Sacramento restaurant Sam's Hof Brau suffers extensive damage from fire". KCRA-TV. Sacramento. February 7, 2023. Retrieved October 8, 2023.
  23. ^ Jarone, Molly (January 2, 2024). "Sam's Hof Brau permanently closes. After 60 years, historic Arden Arcade eatery done in by fire". Sacramento Bee. Retrieved January 3, 2024.
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