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Sindhi clothing

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Sindhi clothing are a part of the Sindhi culture. Sindhi women and men wear the Shalwar Qameez or the Kurta with Pyjama. Women also wear Sari or ghagra. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez, kurta, the Sari as well as other articles of clothing, Sindhis had their own traditional costumes.

The group of Sindhi girls in traditional Sindhi clothes from central Sindh.

Background

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Original dress code of Sindhi women was Lehenga/Ghagra Choli with a long and wide veil, up until the 1840s, women started wearing the suthan underneath the lehnga, later on around 1930s with time Sindhi women stopped wearing lehenga and only wore Sindhi suthan and choli got replaced by long cholo, and men originally wore Dhoti or Godd and a long or short angrakho or Jamo[1][2][3] later angrakho[4] was replaced by Sindhi kurta called Pehrān/Pehriyān[5][6] and dhoti/godd was replaced by Sindhi salwar/suthan/kancha.[7]

 
Sindhi wedding cholo from Hyderabad.

In the past, Older Sindhi women wore paro (petticoat), thick poplin cholo (blouse/Tunic), and chaadar (a sheet of veil). Some wore sleeveless hip length Shirt with a waist-length koti (blouse) with sleeves, on top,[8][9] and a malai satin, Sussi or Bandhani paro or suthan (culottes or palazzo). The younger women wore velvet or amber pyjama (suthan) both at home and outside. Also they wore a long skirt (jablo) on top and a thick poplin blouse and a Rawa/Gandi/Pothi (long and wide muslin, tie and dye or ajrak printed headscarf/veil). Middle aged and young ladies wore churidar pyjama (sorhi suthan).[10] Over time, older ladies started to wear the Salwar Kurta with Slippers (Sapato, Jutti, Khusso or Mojri).[11][12] When women of good family leave the house, they hide the Suthan under a wide Paro (or Peshgir, petticoat), which conceals the person from the waist to the ankles. Over the upper part of the body they throw a Rawo (or Salur, large white veil). Among females of the Sayyid race, especially in the northern parts of Sindh, wear the Burko/Chadree of Arabia and Persia is much used. Hindoo women wear the Paro larger and longer than the Muslimah; they usually prefer the Cholo without a Gaj, and throw a white veil over the head.[13][14] Sindhi women are fond of wearing a multitude of ornaments. These are also distinguished by some minutiae make in the ornaments and jewels of muslim and hindu, but these are unobservable. The most important ornament for a married muslim Sindhi women is the Nath, or bullo/bulli/phuli (Nose jewel) which shows their marital status.[14] In Sindh, the bangles worn peculiar are the large rings of ivory covering the fore arms or full arms;[15] these are worn by all sects, religions and classes. But nowadays glass bangles and gold or silver "Kangar/Kara" "bracelets" are more commonly used. Anklets and toe rings were also common.[13][16]

The original dress of the Sindhi male was a Dhoti worn by hindu men and "Godd" (sarong) by muslim men, jamo/angrakho (top) and achhi pagirhi (White Turban) and a block printed shawl called Ajrak or other shawls locally made were carried over shoulders.[12] Men also carry different colored floral, checkered or plain piece of cloth which is also embroidered on shoulder or as turban, also used as a rumal (handkerchief).[11] Rich men wore Sherwanis (long coats) with gold buttons. Some poor men also wore a "Puthiyo or Kiriyo" a cotton jacket resembling a Mirzai of India, with a sash around waist called bhochhan. The Sadri, Gidi, Koti or Phatui (a waistcoat of rich or colored stuffs, can sometimes be embroidered with mirrors) was also worn by some men. During a cold season men wore a long coat in the shape of "Kaba" (a long coat made of white cotton, resembling European night shirt) wadded with cotton or a "Nimtano" (a coat of the same description, with arms down to the elbows). The rich are fond of handsome furs; the poor content themselves with afghan posteen a Masho, or Chogho (cloak made of felt goat's and camel's hair). The slippers were of two kinds 1st "Jutti", made of red or yellow leather, in shape not unlike those worn by the Egyptians, and 2nd, "Ghetalo" of the same material embroidered with cloth or silk. Wealthy men when travelling, wear a kind of leather top boot called "Mozo", in the hills a sole made of the leaves of a kind of dwarf palm called "Teesh" was used to protect the feet.[17] The traditional clothes of Sindh can still be seen on men and women today.

Traditional clothing

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The Sindhi culture is one of the most diverse cultures of the world, the traditional clothes of Sindhi people are various, which differs from region to region, tribe to tribe even sometimes within tribe it differs a bit, as much as that clothes become a mark of identification of one's region and tribe, specially for a Sindhi women clothes. For Sindhi men, Sindhi style Salwar Khamis are common everyday dress nowadays, Sindhi Salwar/Suthan have very less pleats, other style of salwar is Kancha which has wide (Pancha) cuffs, used to be worn back in time,[17] both lower garments are tied at waist with "Aggath" (drawstring) which is made of different bright colors, heavily ornated and embellished with shiny metallic threads, beads, mirrors etc.[18] The Salwar and Kancha's pleats are created by bringing the folds on both sides together, Sindhi Khamis is usually shorter, before the adoption of Khamis, Sindhi men used to wear Short angrakho called Angelo, later Sindhi Pehriyān/Pehrān (collarless Kurta tunic) tied at either side or in center resembling Sindhi Angelo was common, but unlike Angelo which is completely slitted infront, the Pehrān has halfway slit in either side or in the middle which is tied with two strings, both Angelo and Pehriyan were sometimes used to be embroidered with Sindhi Bhart (embroideries) and mirrorwork. Sindhi men also wear embroidered vests (Ganji) under the Khamis. Some men in rural areas wear Sindhi lungi (only muslims) called "Godd", whereas hindus wore Dhoti or Treto and a long Jama.[19] With clothes Sindhi men wore Sindhi patko or pagg (turban), youngsters wore Sindhi cap. Different shawls like Ajrak, Lungee (silk, cotton and wool made shawls) or any other locally made shawls or handkerchiefs were carried on shoulders.

 
Two Sindhi men in Sindhi Kancha, Patko and Ajrak.

During the medieval period and prior to the Mughal rule, the costumes worn by the people of Sindh resembled the dresses worn in Iraq and adjoining countries.[20][21] The dresses included short tunics and Iraqi style long robes. If any drawers were used, they were of the Iraqi style, such as the pantaloons which were also adopted in neighbouring Multan and also in the coastal areas of Gujarat.[22] However, the use of such Iraqi clothes in Sindh was limited to Mansura,[23] the Arab capital city, established in 712 C.E.[24] and was not universally adopted throughout the region. Arab rule in Sindh ended in 1050 C.E.[25] Further, alongside these dresses, Sindhis also wore other traditional attire.

Sindhi clothing
 
Portrait of a Hindu girl from Karachi, Sind, in narrow Sindhi sossi suthan, veil, cholo and Tauranwari jutti (traditional sandals). c. 1870. Oriental and India Office Collection, British Library.
TypeDress
IntroducedHistoric

Traditional Sindhi Salwars (Suthan, Kancha)

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Sindhi Foot Soldier in his War Dress

The traditional Sindhi drawers are the shalwar[26] style adopted from Iraq[27] and neighbouring countries. The Sindhi shalwar, also called kancha,[28] can be described as wide pantaloons[22] which do not begin to gather at the knees as does the modern Sindhi suthan, and are wide at the ankles.[28] The Sindhi shalwar is plaited at the waist.[29] Both garments are loose down to the ankles, where they are gathered. Both garments have the same origins in the pantaloons of Iraq,[30][31] which are still worn by the Kurds.[32][33] The Sindhi suthan resembles with pants of Kurds, whereas Sindhi kancha resembles with Bakhtiari Lur people of Iran.

The Sindhi shalwar however, was not universally adopted in the region, where it was limited to Mansura. In time too, Arab rule which introduced the Iraqi dress, ended in the 11th century. Accordingly, the traditional Sindhi shalwar qamees.

It is not until the migration of people from Balochistan beginning during the 15th century C.E.[34] and picking up pace during the 18th century C.E.[35] that the use of the shalwar in Sindh was introduced on a wide level. However, the Sindhi shalwar, as the earlier version worn in Mansura, is not as wide and loose as the Balochi shalwar, which is very wide and loose.[36]

A suthan is traditionally tight fitting below the knees or around the ankles whereas any style of shalwar is loosely gathered at the ankles and does not tighten towards the lower parts of the legs.

Some Sindhi men especially Sindhi hindus also wore tight pyjamas, these were also worn by some Sindhi women as well under skirts.[37][38]

Although it was not customary for women to wear the suthan during the early 19th century, men were seen wearing the traditional pantaloon style Sindhi shalwar/suthan during this period.[39] However, the suthan was not universally adopted by members of all religions to begin with,[40] but in 1872 it was noted that the use had spread to a wider audience.[41]

Female Dresses

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Sindhi women are fond of rich and expensive clothes. The wealthier orders have a number of dresses made of brocades, gold and silver stuffs, fine velvets, painted silks, satins, and other such articles of luxury. Married and unmarried girls usually dress in bright colors like red, pink, maroon, purple, blue, orange, green etc colours; old women and widows wear white or neutral or pastel colors.[13]

Sindhi women traditionally wore different styles, fabrics and embroideries of Sindhi Cholo/Choli with Soossi Shalwars or Pajamo under bandhani, Sossi, printed or satin made Skirt and a long veil (Rao, Gandhi, Poti), today Sindhi women most commonly wear the Sindhi Salwar and Cholo with a long and wide veil having Sindhi embroideries called bhart. Bhart varies from tribe to tribe and region to region, Traditional dress called Paro/Jablo/Peshgir/Ghaghro/Ghaghri (Skirt) Cholo/Choli/Polko/Kanjeeri (tunic) is also worn today in some parts of Sindh, some muslim women wear Cholo instead of Choli a long and loose tunic reaching below knees or sometimes till ankles, Sindhi traditional women clothes are most vibrant and colorful with Sindhi embroideries and mirror work, the various local floral prints, the Bandhani fabric (tie and dye technique, which is believed to be originated from Sindh), the block printed fabric and the Sussi fabric is also very famous of Sindh. A full embroidered front of Cholo tunic is called Gaj. Some Sindhi jat and Memon women in "Lar" region of Sindh wear a long thobe like dresses called "Jubo" in Sindhi, while others wear Sindhi fairaq (frocks) with Sindhi Gaj embroidery called (Âggoti), and some baloch & Sindhi women in Sindh wear a frock like dress with a pocket infront called (Ghagho meaning frock in Sindhi).[42][43] The traditional clothes are worn with traditional silver and gold jewellery as well, The white full arm bangles are famous from Mohenjo-daro, originally made out of ivory but today made from plastic.

 
Traditional Sindhi Cholo with Gaj fronts worn by Sammat Muslim women in Lower Sindh "Lar, Kohistan, Lasbelo and Thar regions of Sindh".
 
Painting of Sindhi jat women wearing Jubo (thobe).

Lengha Choli

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Before the advent of the suthan and Sindhi cholo, the traditional dress was lengha (jablo) choli which is still worn by women in various parts of Sindh. Women in the Tharparkar district wear a ghagra, a heavier version of the lehnga, with either a loose or fitted choli,[44] or a kancera, a fully embroidered, backless blouse, held on by small cap sleeves and strings.[45]

Another upper garment is the gaji (pullover shirt) which is worn in the mountain areas of Sindh. The gaji is composed of small, square panels, embroidered on silk and sequins. The neck line of the gaji is cut high, and round on one side, with a slit opening extending the other. Unmarried girls wear the opening to the back and married women, to the front.[45]

The original outfit does not require a woman to wear a suthan underneath the lengha, and up until the 1840s, the skirt was commonly worn on its own.[46] Accordingly, the suthan for women is a relatively late adoption.[47] In parts of Sindh, the skirt is worn without the suthan.[48]

Sindhi Suthan and Sindhi Cholo

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  • Modern Suthan (Chareno): By the 1930s,[7] the suthan, similar to the Shalwar became the traditional lower garment worn by women in Sindh.[49] The Sindhi suthan, also called Chareno, is similar to the Punjabi suthan of the Punjab region,[50] is heavily pleated, voluminous on the thighs, slightly narrowed on the knees, gathered in at the instep[28] and pleated to the ankles.[51][52][53] The traditional Sindhi Suthan along with Pajamo, for women is made in bright colors and rich fabrics like soosi, silk, satin, velvets and brocades which are heavily embroidered at ankles (Pācha).
  • Cholo: The Sindhi suthan was traditionally accompanied by the Sindhi Cholo (tunic) and Paro (Petticoat/Ghagra)[54][55] but now is worn with a Cholo (kameez) only which is loose fitting,[56] and is made in a variety of ways, including the traditional method of the cholo opening at the front to the waist,[57][58] with either tight or wide sleeves reaching above or below the elbow.[59] The traditional Cholo reaches at least till knees, while some women wear it down to the ankles.[60]

Women generally wear a dupatta or Rao (Veil) with the Sindhi suthan and Sindhi cholo, suit to cover their head and shoulders and is very important among Sindhi women for both religiously and culturally. In the past, women wore a thin muslin veil (rawa) bigger than the present day dupattas.[11]

Sindhi Julaba

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Very loose ankle length garment in hand loom or hand-blocked material with a hood attached, with tie string at "V" opening in the neck and side slits at lower part extending to lower hem. Worn with or without hood in the villages of Sindh and can also be embroidered.[61][62]

Saluka

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The Saluka is a tight fitting waistcoat which was worn by some Sindhi and the Punjabi women.[63]

Gaj

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Gaj, Gajj or Guj are very traditional embroidered tunics of Sindhi women from Sindh,[64] it is a solid embroidery with mirrorwork, pompoms, sequins, cowries, shells, beads and buttons over the woman's shirt it usually covers the area, starting from neck up to the stomach.[65] It incorporates variety of stitches and colors. Sometimes, it is made on separate piece of cloth and then attached to the garment.[66] The style/patterns of embroidery on Gaj are usually two or sometimes three squares, circular or heart/paisley shaped blocks on each sides and an arrow like straight line in between,[67][68] other style which has one block on both sides on yoke, and horizontal or vertical lines or both in front, or simply a straight arrow like line in front of a tunic without the side blocks,[69][70] the arms and borderline are also embroidered, there are also many other styles, stitches and colors of Gaj embroidery specific to each region and tribe of Sindh.[71] The Larai jats of Lār region call it "Āggoti". A single Gaj can take up months or weeks to complete.[72]

 
The statue of man and woman showing traditional Sindhi clothing, displayed in a museum.
 
Traditional Sindhi Gaj from Thar desert of Sindh.

Gaj was usually worn on special occasions, specially for bride and for the dowry of woman,[73][72] but back in time it was also worn as everyday outfit, today only worn on Cultural days or on any Cultural events by Sindhi women. Some women still wear minimal Gaj embroidered yokes and necklines called "Galo and Gichi" with mirrorwork, on modern style clothes.[74][75]

Sari

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Saris were and are only worn by Sindhi Lohana, Waniya, Khatri and Brahmin Hindu women,[19] the educated and trading communities of Sindhi hindu women who adopted Sarees from other regions of India.[76] In the 20th century, Sindhi women took to wearing net and chiffon sarees embroidered with gold or silver thread, and velvet blouses. Sometimes georgette sarees were paired with crocheted blouses In Sindh sarees were draped both ways in front pallu and back pallu saree style.

Some educated Memon, Shaikh and Khowaja community women also wear Saris on special occasions like weddings, parties, events etc.[77][78]

Male dress

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Sindhi Suthan and Sindhi Angelo

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A Sindhi hindu banker in long Angerkho and Dhoti, (1845)

The other outfit worn by males is the modern Sindhi Suthan with the traditional Peheren (Sindhi shirt) which is also called Angerkho,[7] a short form of the Kurta and fastened to the side.[79] An alternative name for the top is Angeli which is short and left or right crossed, covering the chest, the shoulders and the arms. The sleeves are long and pleated. Large and wide pleats cover the belly.[51] The other upper garment is the traditional garment similar to a long gown.[80]

Sindhi headwear

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Main article: Sindhi cap

Sindh has its own variety of hats/caps and turbans.

  • Sindhi Topi: The Sindhi topi is a cylindrical skullcap with an arch shaped cut-out on the frontal side. The hat is embroidered with intricate geometrical designs with small pieces of mirrors or gemstones sewed into it.[81][82]
 
Sindhi topi
  • Talpur Hat/Serai Hat: The Talpur hat also called Serai Topi were unusual hats, usually made in brightly coloured velvets or flamboyant brocades, always with the contrasting panels at centre back and front of the drum. They were worn throughout the 19th century by muslims in Sindh. Originally monopolised by government officials and lawyers.
     
    Talpurs in Serai Topi.
  • Mogho Topu: The square hat, made of black cloth or kincob (cloth of gold), called "mogho topu", belonged to higher and wealthier classes. It is not worn anymore.[17]

There are three different kinds of turbans:[17]

  1. The Paga: A long cotton cloth, generally white, sometimes dyed.
  2. The Patako/Pothio: Resembling the former, but smaller and sometimes used ajrak or lungi cloth.
  3. The Phentiyo: A fold of cotton stuff, loosely twisted round the head. Bright in colors, usually of bandhani fabric.[17]

The lower orders prefer clothes dyed with indigo to white dresses[17] as latter show dirt too much, some people especially Fakirs, Dervishs and malangs wear green, black, red and orange color turbans. The black color is associated with Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai, Red color with Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, orange with Sachal Sarmast, and green with Shah Noorani, these all are sufi saints of Sindh.

 
Two muslim Sindhi men in Sindhi Salwar/Suthan and Pehriyan/Pehran with Sindhi Patko (turbans) and Loi (shawl), Hyderabad, Sindh.
  • Top/Toplo: traditional handmade hoodies for kids and children, used in winter to keep the ears and head warm, made of different styles like round circular one with "Jhalar", or cone shaped, it is also sometimes embroidered with mirrorwork and pompoms, beads, shells/cowries, buttons are sewn on it, it is also called as Kantop.[83][84]
  • Sindhi Faqeeri topi: a circular skullcap made of patchwork, worn by many Sindhi Sufi devotees and Fakeers.[85]
 
A malang wearing Faqeeri topi at the shrine of Hazrat Lal Shahbaz Qalandar

There are also many other styles of caps, hats and turbans which used to be worn back in time, some are still being worn today.

Sindhi Shawls

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Main articles: Ajrak, Abochani, and Sindhi Lungee (cloth)

Ajrak: the block printed shawl known as Ajrak used by men, the ancient Indus Valley Civilization art of Sindh, the traditional ajrak has various designs of maroon or crimson, white and black color, it is a symbol of Sindhi culture.[86]

Maleer: a block printed ajrak for women and bridegrooms (doshalo),[87][88] sometimes it is embroidered with mirrorwork, in today's times various designs and colors of maleer are worn by women as modern clothes like salwar kameez, sarees, jackets etc.[89][90]

Lungi/Lungee: made of silk, cotton and wool, in both bright and soft colours with beautifully woven broad borders of silver and gold thread. The use of bright, bold and vibrant colors with gold zari on the Lungi make its worth and significance, these are worn as shawl and as turbans on ceremonious occasions.[83][91]

Sindhi khadi/thari shawls: these are handwoven khadi shawls worn in winters, these are most beautiful usually in black and white colors with multi color stripes, other colors are also used for making these shawls.[92][93][94]

Abochhini/Abochani: or Bochini are Sindhi embroidered wedding shawls for brides, while Bochini/Bochan were used for bridegroom on wedding day in Sindh.[95][96][97] from early to mid 19th and 20th century,[98][99][100] the beautiful large and wide shawls embroidered with glossy silk threads, mirrors, beads sometimes cardamom and cloves are also stitched on it.[101][102][103][104] Many Sindhi tribes like Khaskheli, Memons and Lohanas make "Butti" flower motifs on Abochhinis.[105][106][107] The Soomra tribe wedding shawls have scattered buds of "Akk" plant (Calotropis procera) embroidered in typical Phulri (Herringbone) stitch, various other motifs like Bayri (Ziziphus jujuba), Kanwal (Lotus), stitches and colors of luminous silk threads are used on it,[108][109] these shawls were given to brides as part of dowry.[110]

Loi/Loee: these are simple handwoven lightweight winter shawls, these are made usually in cream colors.[111]

Sindhi Rawa/Chadars: Sindhi traditional dupattas are long and wide, which are beautifully embroidered with mirrorwork on plain, printed or bandhani cloth, today worn when women go outdoors to cover their head and body.[112]

 
Sindhi Ajrak

Modern clothing

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Shalwar kameez

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Woman in Shalwar kameez praying at Panchmukhi Hanuman Temple
 
Sindhi Women in Salwar, Cholo and Rao in traditional sindhi embroideries.

Men and women wear the straight cut Punjabi[113] shalwar kameez using local prints, embroideries and designs.

Sindhi kurta

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The Sindhi kurta is the traditional straight cut variety worn in neighbouring Punjab[114][115] which is becoming increasingly popular in Sindh[116] but uses local patterns to embroidery the garment and also makes use of mirrors. The local art of bandhani (creating patterned textiles by resisting parts of a fabric by tying knots on it before it is dyed) is utilised which is believed to have originated in Sindh and spread to Gujarat via Rajasthan[117] and is also practiced in the Punjab region. Sindhi kurtas are also made out of heavy applique called "Tuk" and the kurtas are often called Tuk kurtas.[118] Ajrak prints are also used.

Western clothes are also worn by young boys and girls.

  •  
    Sindhi cap and Ajrak shawl.
  •  
    Sindhi Gulkari (Phulkari) embroidered modern style Chola.
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Image showing clothing in Indus valley civilization
 
Painting of a Sindhi and a Parsi from a series of twelve paintings, c.1850
 
Sindhi knight in Sindhi armor with Sindhi Kaat (Bhuj) weapon
 
Sindhi Armor
 
Sindhi Armor
 
Sindhi Armor
 
Traditional Sindhi dresses in a cloth shop.
 
Elderly Sindhi man in Sindhi Salwar Kamis, Patko and Ajrak
 
Two Sindhi men, one wearing Godd and Sindhi traditional floral rumal (handkerchief) as turban.
 
Sindhi man in Qamis and Kancha in Clifton beach, Karachi.
 
Sindhi sufi singer in ajrak turban, Kantha necklaces, and tamburo musical instrument of Sindh.
 
Elderly man of thar desert wearing Phentiyo/Phento turban.
 
Men of thar desert in Sindh wearing Angelo.
 
Group of men in Karachi.
 
Sindhi muslim men
 
Men of Hyderabad, Sindh
 
Sindhi men wrestling (Malakhro) in Hyderabad.
 
Talpur meers wearing Sherwanis and unique circular embroidered caps.
 
Portrait of an elderly man wearing unique hat probably Moghu hat.
 
Portrait of Sindhi Lohana Amil men in Serai topi
 
Vintage group photo of Sindhi hindus.
 
Sindhi tribal girl
 
Sketch of Sindhi Fishermen.
 
A Sindhi girl of Karachi
 
A girl from Karachi
 
Sindhi fisherwomen
 
Portrait of a Jain woman and child
 
Sindhi girl from Kashmore.
 
Women of Thar desert, Sindh
 
Sindhi dress of Thar, Sindh.
 
A girl wearing Soossi fabric dress
 
A girl dressed in Sindhi embroidered Frock.

See also

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References

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  15. ^ Magedin, Shireen (2022-05-07). Lifelines. AUSXIP Publishing. In many Sindhi tribes married women had to wear ivory-colored bangles that covered their arms? Your great grandmother used to wear them. She told me that an ideal set would have included seventeen bangles worn on the upper arm and nine on the lower arm; a total of fifty-two bangles on each arm." My great grandmother? I listened with interest.
  16. ^ Gazetteer of the Province of Sind ... government at the "Mercantile" steam Press. 1907.
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