Bouchon

For the restaurant founded by Thomas Keller, see Bouchon (restaurant).

For the commune, see Bouchon, Somme.

A bouchon (French pronunciation: [buʃɔ̃]) is a type of restaurant found in Lyon, France, that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, coq-au-vin, "salade lyonnaise" duck pâté or roast pork. Compared to other forms of French cooking such as nouvelle cuisine, the dishes are quite hearty. There are approximately twenty officially certified traditional bouchons, but a larger number of establishments describe themselves using the term.

The inside of a typical bouchon

Typically, the emphasis in a bouchon is not on haute cuisine but, rather, a convivial atmosphere and a personal relationship with the owner.

History

Another bouchon, Le Tablier ("The Apron"), in Vieux Lyon.

The tradition of bouchons came from small inns visited by silk workers passing through Lyon in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

According to the dictionary Le petit Robert, this name derives from the 16th century expression for a bunch of twisted straw. A representation of such bundles began to appear on signs to designate the restaurants and, by metonymy, the restaurants themselves became known as bouchons. The more common use of "bouchons" as a stopper or cork at the mouth of a bottle, and its derivatives, have the same etymology.

Today

Since 1997, Pierre Grison and his organization, L'Association de défense des bouchons lyonnais (The Association for the Preservation of Lyonnais Bouchons), bestow annual certifications to restaurants as "authentic" bouchons. These restaurants receive the title Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais and are identified with a sticker showing the marionette Gnafron, a Lyonnais symbol of the pleasures of dining, with a glass of wine in one hand and a napkin bearing the Lyon crest in the other.

The following list, subject to some fluctuation as the certification is bestowed annually, contains most of the certified bouchons: Abel, Brunet, Café des deux places, Café des fédérations, Chabert et fils, Daniel et Denise, Chez Georges le petit bouchon, Les gones, Hugon, Le Jura, Chez Marcelle, Le Mercière, La mère Jean, Le mitonné, Le Morgon, Le musée, Chez Paul, Les Trois Maries, A ma vigne, and Le Vivarais.

While many bouchons are now oriented strongly towards the tourist market, with increased prices and less traditional fare as a result, a typical meal in a real bouchon costs around €12-15 as of 2006.

Cuisine

A bouchon in Lyon.

Dried saucissons de Lyon

Saint-Félicien, a typical cheese from Lyon

Typical items in the bouchon repertoire include:

Soup

Tripe soup, pumpkin soup

Salads and cold appetizers

Chicken liver salad, pork head cheese, groins d'âne salad (literally, "donkey snout" salad), marinated herrings, salade Lyonnaise (lettuce with bacon, croutons, mustard dressing, and a poached egg)

Hot appetizers

gateau de volaille (chicken liver cake), boudin noir (blood sausage, usually served with warm apples)

Offal

Andouillette (pork offal sausage), assorted offal gratin, tablier de sapeur

Fish

Stingray, quenelles (ground fish dumplings), grilled fillets

Meat

Coq au vin, pot-au-feu (pot roast), chicken thighs stuffed with morels

Vegetables

Cardoon à la moelle (in bone marrow), barboton, pailasson de Lyon

Cheese

Saint-Marcellin, Saint-Félicien, Rigotte de Condrieu

Desserts

tarte praline (praline tart), lemon meringue pie, caramelized apples, bugnes de Lyon (miniature beignets)

See also

• Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises

Bibliography

• Everylen et Jean-Marc Boudou (2003). Les Bonnes Recettes des Bouchons Lyonnais. Libris. ISBN 2-84799-002-X.